The purpose of this tutorial is to accompany you to the sowing of your favorite plants, wishing you bought your seeds on ! But if not, it does not matter: this document is the result of several years of experience, trials and errors, successes and failures, all conducted and carried out in the name of passion for the world of succulents. It's open source, it has no pretensions of science and does not constitute the only way to get good results: in fact, we will be glad to receive suggestions on techniques and procedures for planting details, maybe personal to each of you. We will treat all aspects of succession in sowing through a course divided into 6 parts: we start from the description of the environmental conditions to recreate, we will continue with the analysis of the soil of planting seeds, we will analyze specific treatments for stimulation and awakening of the seeds. So we will deal with the seeding itself, providing advice on what to do in the first few days and giving particular techniques depending on the species.Īll information provided in this tutorial are summarized in schematic form in " Table of sowing", found at the end of this chapter: it is a true "encyclopedia of experiences", where we wanted to include, genus by genrus, our tips for a satisfying and productive planting. Well, at this point I think we can start. Seeds age: studies show that seeds germination is inversely proportional to its age, except for isolated cases. Consequently, a seed collected 5 years ago will be much less vital of one collected 2 years ago. Our seeds belong exclusively to the collection of the previous year or the last growing season, so they have the maximum possible germination. Reproducing these conditions, it is possible to sow at any time of the year. However, because sooner or later we will have to get used to our plants to the natural environment, it is good that the sowing takes place around the time when the seeds sprout in nature: we sow between January and March if we have a propagator, between April and May if we have a greenhouse and want to take advantage of the warmth and natural light. We saw in the previous lesson that in order to promote seeds germination we have to keep the humidity very high, close to 100%. A so high humidity, however, favors the development of rots and molds, especially on soils rich in organic matter such as humus and plant remains.
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The risk of mold can be reduced by adopting a series of measures. For example, you can perform the so-called pasteurization of the soil (or disinfection): a disinfectant powdery specific and compatible with the development of plants is added to the soil.
Other methods, more rustic but equally effectively, consist to pour on freshly boiled water or soil to keep the soil in an oven at 70-80☌ (no more) for about an hour. We will also disinfect the tools that we will use for sowing: pots, trays, etc. Method b: put the soil in an oven for one hour at 70-80☌.Method a: add to the soil a specific disinfectant powder.with sodium hypochlorite and subsequent thorough washing. Organic soil attacked by mold Composition of the mixture Tools disinfection: with sodium hypochlorite or other disinfectant and after thorough washing.Method c: put the soil in an microwavw oven for 10min at W max. On the effective composition of the soil, there are many opinions and schools of thought, all equally valid. We will provide below some possible solutions that you can take depending on the availability of the materials in your areas of residence: The ultimate goal is to get a slightly acid soil (pH 6.5), not too rich in nutrients, very permeable to air and water, a fine structure.
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